Sydney · Late August 2026

The Kirribilli List

We spent a week in Sydney with four young kids and a marathon in the middle of it, and we based ourselves in Kirribilli — the quiet bit of harbour just past the north end of the Bridge. Almost everything below started with a walk down the hill to the wharf.

This is the honest version of the list: only places we actually went, with what we thought.

Start here

Why Kirribilli is a good place to stay

If you are travelling with kids, the north side of the harbour solves a lot of problems at once.

Kirribilli

The wharf, and the ferry off itFree-ish thrill

Kirribilli wharf to Circular Quay takes minutes and is genuinely one of the best things you can do in Sydney — you come around the point and the Opera House and the Bridge arrive at the same time. Our kids asked for the ferry over most of the paid attractions. Tap on with a card and treat it as transport that happens to be a harbour cruise.

Ferry crossing Sydney Harbour toward Kirribilli, under the Harbour Bridge
Plate 01
Kirribilli

The village itself

A handful of streets with a good cafe on most of them, a gelato shop, restaurants for dinner, parks at either end and Luna Park a walk away. We could do a whole day without a car or a ride share, which with four kids is the entire ballgame.

Eat

Dinners and long lunches

Ranked by nothing. Grouped by where you'll be when you get hungry.

Kirribilli

Foys KirribilliKid-proof

Our first dinner, and the right one: casual seafood inside the Sydney Flying Squadron sailing club, right on the water at Careening Cove. Fish and chips, boats to look at, no one minds noise. If you land jet-lagged with children, start here.

Kirribilli

Chico's Bar and Grill

The neighbourhood Mexican, minutes from the Bridge. Cheerful and loud enough that a table of six with four kids disappears into the room. Good for the night you don't want to plan anything.

Kirribilli

Woodfire Kirribilli

Wood-fired pizza and Italian on the Kirribilli–Milsons Point edge. We ordered it in on the night of the race and ate it flat on the couch, which is the highest recommendation a restaurant can get from a marathoner.

The Spit, Mosman

Chiosco by OrmeggioBest view

A relaxed Italian diner from the Ormeggio team, sitting right on the water beside the Spit marina with boats on three sides. We used it for the pre-race carb load and it was the meal of the trip — pasta, water, masts, kids allowed to be kids.

Chiosco by Ormeggio on the water at The Spit, Mosman
Plate 04
Newtown

Bella Brutta

Blistered, properly charred wood-fired pizza on King Street, from the LP's Quality Meats and Porteño crowd. We went the night after picking up the race bib. Small room and a queue — go early if you have a stroller in the party.

Surry Hills

The Dolphin Hotel

Pizza lunch on our last day in the big, high-ceilinged dining room with the wood-fired oven going. A Surry Hills institution that is completely relaxed at lunchtime, which is when to bring the kids.

Haymarket, CBD

Garden Palace 花園阁

Yum cha with the trolleys still doing the rounds — we had a long lunch here with friends. Trolley service is a gift with kids: they choose with their eyes and food arrives immediately.

All over

Guzman y Gomez + FishbowlThe fallback

Not a recommendation so much as a public service. Burritos from one, rice and poke bowls from the other, both fast and everywhere. On the days the schedule went sideways, this combination fed everyone without an argument.

Coffee & breakfast

Mornings

Sydney makes it very hard to get a bad coffee. These are the ones we went back to.

Kirribilli wharf

Celsius Coffee and DiningOur default

A small cafe sitting out over the water on the wharf itself, watching ferries come and go. Walk down, order, and wait for your boat. Hard to beat as a first stop of the day.

Breakfast at Celsius Coffee and Dining on Kirribilli wharf
Plate 02
Kirribilli

Pasture of Kirribilli

The comfortable all-day option in the village — roomy, modern, good for a sit-down breakfast when you're not in a rush to be anywhere.

North Sydney

Cafe Loulou

An all-day French cafe with a bakery counter, a short walk up from Kirribilli. Pastries for the kids and an actual coffee for the adults; good on a morning when you need something between a snack and a meal.

Eveleigh

Carriageworks Farmers MarketSaturday only

Saturday morning inside the old railway workshops: NSW growers, an AP Bakery stall, fresh juice, scones. We grazed our way through breakfast standing up. Go early — it wraps up around lunchtime and the good pastries go first.

Produce stalls at the Carriageworks Farmers Market, Eveleigh
Plate 03
Surry Hills

Paramount Coffee ProjectRecovery breakfast

Where we ate the morning after the marathon: bright room, serious coffee, a brunch menu built for people with an appetite. AP Bakery is upstairs in the same building, so you can add bread and pastries to whatever you already ordered. We did.

Surry Hills

Bills

The original Bill Granger room, and the ricotta hotcakes are still on the menu for a reason. We came for a late breakfast that turned into lunch. Order the hotcakes even if you think you're a savoury person.

Surry Hills

Axil Coffee Roasters

The Melbourne roaster's Crown Street shop — a straight-down-the-line espresso stop when you're walking Surry Hills and want the coffee itself to be the point.

Gelato & sweets

The 4pm problem, solved

Four kids, a long walk, and a wobble in the afternoon. This is the fix.

Kirribilli

Gelatissimo

Right in the village, and therefore the one we visited most. Reliable, quick, close enough to walk to in pyjamas-adjacent clothing.

Newtown

MapoWorth the queue

Small-batch gelato made daily on King Street, with a genuinely good vegan half of the cabinet. There is usually a line and it moves. Pair it with pizza a few doors down and you have a whole evening.

Gelato on King Street, Newtown
Plate 05
Multiple shops

Messina

The Sydney gelato everyone will tell you to get, and they're right. Rotating specials board; the classics never miss.

Multiple shops

Yo-Chi

Self-serve frozen yoghurt, pay by weight. Not gourmet and not the point — kids build their own, everyone gets exactly what they wanted, no one negotiates with a menu.

With kids

Things to do

Museums that hold up, parks that saved us, and one zoo you take the ferry to.

Circular Quay

Sydney Opera House tour

Going inside changes the building from a postcard into a place. The tours are well paced and the kids stayed with it — and you're a two-minute walk from the ferry when it ends.

The Sydney Opera House at Circular Quay
Plate 06
The Domain

Art Gallery of NSW

Free to walk into, big and calm, with enough variety that everyone found something. Easy to do in an hour or stretch to three; a good rainy-morning card to hold.

CBD

Museum of Sydney

Small, sharp, and about the city you're standing in — the right size for kids' attention spans. Its canteen does sandwiches and salads, so you can turn the visit into lunch without leaving.

Millers Point

Sydney Observatory night tourSleeper hit

Booked almost as an afterthought for a Thursday evening and it turned into one of the best things we did all week. You get the history of the hill first, then the telescopes come out and you look at the moon and the stars through them — all four kids were completely absorbed. Sessions run after dark, so book ahead and plan a late bedtime.

Sydney Observatory on Observatory Hill, Millers Point
Plate 07
Mosman

Taronga ZooGo by ferry

We went on the afternoon of race day, which tells you how manageable it is. Australian animals plus a harbour view that would be worth the ticket on its own. Arriving by ferry from the Quay is half the fun.

Taronga Zoo on the harbour at Mosman
Plate 08
Milsons Point

Luna Park + Clark Park

You don't have to buy a ride pass — the walk along the water past the big face, with the Bridge overhead, is free and completely delivers. Clark Park above it is a good spot to let everyone run before dinner.

Luna Park and the Harbour Bridge at Milsons Point
Plate 09
Darling Harbour

The big Darling Harbour playgroundBest playground

Water play, climbing, slides, swings, at a scale that lets four kids scatter safely. Budget more time here than you think; it is genuinely hard to leave.

Kirribilli

Milson Park

The local green patch down by Careening Cove. Nothing famous about it — that's the appeal. Ten minutes from most of Kirribilli and a good pressure release before or after dinner.

Surry Hills

Shannon Reserve + Surry Hills Library

A playground with a library attached to it, which is the best possible combination on a day with a lot of walking: half the kids climb, half sit down with books, everyone resets.

Beaches & swimming

The eastern beaches day

Late August is the end of winter, so this is a walking-and-swimming day rather than a lying-on-a-towel day. Still absolutely worth it.

Bondi

Bondi Beach + the coastal path

Start at the beach and walk south along the clifftop path — sandstone, sea, and swimmers below you the whole way. You can turn around whenever the smallest legs say so; every section is good.

Bondi

Bondi Icebergs poolBracing

The famous ocean pool at the south end, with waves breaking straight into it. It is cold in August. Swim anyway — it is the single most Sydney thing on this list.

The Bondi Icebergs ocean pool at the south end of Bondi Beach
Plate 10
Coogee

Coogee Pavilion

Where we landed afterwards for lunch and a drink: a big, sprawling, deliberately family-friendly beachfront pub with room to spread out. The correct ending to a salty morning.

Out of town

One day in the Blue Mountains

You can skip Katoomba and the crowds. The lower mountains are closer and, with kids, better.

Glenbrook

Glenbrook Gorge Walking Track

About eighty minutes of proper bush — creek bed, rock-hopping, big gum trees, the sound of water. It is a real track rather than a paved lookout walk, so wear shoes you can scramble in, but our kids handled it and loved the rocks most of all.

The Glenbrook Gorge walking track, Blue Mountains
Plate 11
Glenbrook

2773 Cafe

Lunch in the village afterwards. Casual, family-friendly, roasts its own coffee, and has room for a group that has just come out of a gorge covered in dust.

How we'd plan it: drive or train out in the morning, walk first while everyone is fresh, then eat. The whole thing works as a single day out from the city.

Running

For the runner in the group

Sydney is a very good running city, largely because the harbour keeps interrupting you.

North Sydney → the Quay

TCS Sydney Marathon2:50:37

The reason we came. It starts on the north side, crosses the Harbour Bridge in the first few kilometres, and finishes at the Opera House — and the hills in the second half are real, especially through the eastern suburbs. Colin ran 2:50:37. If you're a spectating family, staying north of the Bridge made the morning enormously easier.

The mass start of the TCS Sydney Marathon on Miller Street, North Sydney Colin running the TCS Sydney Marathon
Plates 12b & 12 — start, North Sydney; and the race itself
Neutral Bay / Kirribilli

The 11 km harbour loop

Our favourite training run of the week: out through Neutral Bay and around Kirribilli Point, roughly eleven kilometres of quiet streets, water on your left, and the Bridge appearing at intervals. Rolling rather than flat.

Milsons Point

Shakeout by Luna Park

Flat, short, and right on the water underneath the Bridge. Perfect for easy legs the day before a race — or for anyone who just wants twenty minutes with the best view in the city.

If you only have one day

The greatest hits, in order

Built from the parts of our week that worked best, arranged so you're never backtracking.

  1. Coffee at the wharf. Celsius in Kirribilli, then walk straight onto the ferry.
  2. Ferry to Circular Quay. Sit outside. This is the money shot of the whole trip.
  3. Opera House tour. Book ahead; you're already standing at the door.
  4. Lunch at the Museum of Sydney. Small museum, easy canteen, five minutes from the Quay.
  5. Art Gallery of NSW. Walk up through the Domain and take it at whatever pace the group has left.
  6. Ferry back and walk to Luna Park. Along the water, under the Bridge, past the big face.
  7. Dinner in Kirribilli. Foys if you want the water, Woodfire if you want pizza.
  8. Gelato on the way home. Non-negotiable.

The one thing we'd tell anyone: pick somewhere to stay that has a ferry wharf at the bottom of the hill. Everything else on this list gets easier from there.